Celebrity and editorial makeup artist Pati Dubroff serves up some life-changing advice.
Written by MAUREEN CHOI
On a recent Sunday, I had the glowy fortune of talking beauty with Pati Dubroff, the inventive and boundary-pushing pro behind some of Hollywood’s famous faces—Julianne Moore, Priyanka Chopra, and Kate Bosworth—at our inaugural beauty seminar with Armani Beauty. We waxed poetic on the virtues of bio-cellulose sheet masks, demoed the ridiculously good sculpting effects of the ZIIP microcurrent tool, and drained some puff-inducing lymph with a face roller to boost circulation. Then there was a full tutorial on the universally-flattering, works-great-for-day-or-night look, above. And man, did she have great intel. Here, she reveals the red-carpet secret to perfect skin, exactly where to apply blush, and her no-fail move for making sure lipstick never, ever bleeds.
“The face has multiple undertones and shades going on, so using two colors of foundation is how you get the most natural, even finish,” says Dubroff. To do that, “choose a liquid formula like the easy-to-blend Luminous Silk that matches your neck exactly and apply it to the center of the face, which will brighten and highlight. Then, use one shade darker on the outer portion where you would normally contour to add more depth.”
“For blush to really work its magic, it has to be applied in the right place.” After mixing two complementary shades of liquid blush (she prefers those over powder for their water-wash effect), Dubroff lightly buffs the combination right onto the apples of the cheeks—aka the “meaty bit”. Be sure to leave a good inch from your nose and under the eyes, she advises. “Too close to those areas and the face will look heavy, plus creep into fine lines.”
Eye makeup can sometimes feel precious, which is why Dubroff favors sheer, creamy textures that can be blended and buffed with no hard lines. Start by using a matte brown pencil to fill in the outer corners and work the color into the crease for definition. “This is an excellent technique for giving contour back to the eyes, especially as we get older,” she adds. Avoid a weighty, powdered-down feel by layering a taupe liquid shadow on top of the pencil with your finger so it melts into the lids and adds a “sensual, hazy shine.”
Don’t even think about putting on mascara, until you’ve curled your lashes, says Dubroff. “It’s like drawing the curtains back in a dark room so eyes look instantly brighter and more in focus.” Lock in the wide-eye effect with an inky lengthening formula like this one from Giorgio Armani. For a more voluminous look, “work the wand at the roots first, then wiggle it up through the lashes twice.”
“Applying lipstick in thin, sheer layers and building up coverage is the trick to getting it to last,” Dubroff says. She ensures a flake-free, well-hydrated pout by prepping lips with 111SKIN Infusion Lip Mask and Plumping Duo Stick, then “laying down a liquid formula like Lip Maestro as a base and pressing the color in with your fingertip to create a stain-like finish.” Top it off with a waxy lip pencil in a similar shade to define the edges and add more depth. Skip the outer corners of the mouth, though, since color tends to pool there. “Do that and you’re asking for all-day touch-ups.”