The kinds of fragrances Frédéric Malle sets out to create are one-of-a-kind, no-compromise creations punctuated by French perfume tradition. That’s not surprising considering his family’s deep legacy in perfume-making (his grandfather founded Parfums Christian Dior, which his mother later went on to run). But instead of becoming a nose himself, Malle pioneered a radical path as a visionary fragrance producer. “I always liked the idea of being an art director, of having a slightly wider view of the industry, with perfume being the central element,” he says. “I am fascinated by the connection between image and perfume, between the bottle and the scent inside, so my destiny was always to be more of a conductor than a musician.”

Since launching his Editions de Parfums in 2000, Malle has collaborated and forged deeper friendships with perfume greats such as Dominique Ropion, Olivia Giacobetti, and Edmond Roudnitska to produce a body of work that is simultaneously artistic yet wearable, signature yet nonconformist, all aimed at leaving a trail of luxury behind those who wear them. His latest alchemy, Rose & Cuir by Jean-Claude Ellena, is an alluring trap containing no actual roses, instead tricking your senses and imagination with a lush dose of geranium, blackcurrant, and leather. “It is like a fantasy rose; it’s a bit of a twisted way of seeing things,” says Malle. We sat down with the fragrance guru at his Melrose Place boutique (just a few doors down from VIOLET GREY) to learn about his secrets for making a great eau.